Jethro’s BBQ & Sports
Bar
3100 Forest Ave., 279-3300
Daily 11 a.m. – close |
Jethro’s BBQ & Sports
Bar
For years, Des Moines has been
mysteriously lacking three things:
1.) Family restaurants with good,
scratch-made side dishes. 2.)
A comprehensive sports bar with
an original kitchen. 3.) Any sports
bar for Drake fans. Gateway Market
Café helped with the first
problem and Drake’s miracle basketball
season temporarily assuaged the
third one. Now Jethro’s BBQ &
Sports Bar emphatically fills
all three voids while becoming
the year’s happiest story on this
reporter’s beat. That judgment
comes despite the growing pains
of a brand new place that rushed
its opening to accommodate Drake
Relays fans.
Since Jethro wears many hats,
we’ll break this down by genre.
As a barbecue, Jethro’s is making
some mistakes, but its smokehouse
(hickory and oak) meats are still
as good as anyone’s in town. The
most reliable smoked meat has
been the pulled pork — moist and
juicy, crunchy and smoky at the
same time. Smokemaster Dominic
Iannarelli said he has been using
pork butts up until now, but by
the end of May he will be smoking
whole hogs, or at least whole
suckling pigs, for Saturday and
Sunday brunches. That’s a rare
and wonderful practice that is
disappearing from most of continental
America. Jethro’s ribs came with
perfect color (deep pink), a nice
sweet bourbon glaze and a decent
texture, but a bit short of perfect
tenderness. Brisket was a bit
disappointing on two occasions.
It could not be sliced when ordered
and pre-sliced pieces had dried
out. Iannarelli promised that
issue would be corrected in the
future. Turkeys and chickens were
both correctly smoked whole, on
the bone. However, sandwiches
of each were too dry when they
reached my plate. I’d advise sticking
to the whole and half chickens.
Sausage (andouille from Graziano’s)
was superb. Sauces covered the
spectrum from sweet Texan, to
vinegary Carolina style, sweet
and hot Bahamian and even Bob
Gibson’s famous white sauce recipe
(cider vinegar and mayonnaise
based) from Alabama.
As a sports bar, Jethro’s is
a dream come true. An old Pizza
Hut/police station was redecorated
with stylish touches, like a copper
covered bar and polished wood
ceiling trusses. High-definition
televisions were everywhere, and
waiters even remembered my esoteric
programming requests from previous
visits. Jethro’s carries every
satellite sports package, even
rugby and European soccer.
The non-smokehouse foods separate
this place from other barbecues
and other sports bars. Onion rings
were superb, buttermilk washed,
lightly fried and expertly seasoned.
Chicken wings were smoked and
fried yet remained moist. Jethro’s
fried cheese (aged white cheddar)
was the first version I have ever
liked. Even nachos had a unique
option with waffle fries substituting
for chips and your choice of smoked
meats for topping. Chips, still
hot from the fryer, and dip soared
with a blue cheese-artichoke-spinach
sauce. The macaroni and cheese
was simply divine, with shell
pasta and aged white cheddar.
Sweet potato fries and mashed
potatoes with gravy were marvelous,
scratch-made dishes. Gumbo provided
an original take on the seafood
and okra classic: this Cajun soup
used sassafras and chicken stock
with smoked chicken and sausage.
Baked beans were home-soaked kidney
beans in barbecue sauce. Cole
slaw came in hot German and cold
Midwestern versions. Salads even
offered a pair of good original
dressings — cranberry vinaigrette
and double chipotle.
Half-pound burgers, plate wide
pork tenderloins and thick catfish
filets are all capable of distracting
barbecue fans. The Jethro sandwich
could become a competitive eating
legend. It includes a fried pork
tenderloin, pulled pork, bacon
and smoked ham. Strawberry shortcake
came with home made biscuits and
fresh whipped cream. A peach pie
came with caramelized pecans and
bourbon sauce for toppings.
Bottom line — Jethro’s rushed
its opening and still came out
blazing with originality across
the board. Smart money is betting
that things will only get better.
Side dishes
Sammie Jack’s closed their Cottage
Grove barbecue but still caters…
Nay and Southine Baccam opened
Teriyaki Experience on University
in Clive… The south side La Hacienda
moved to a larger venue at 900
Army Post Road. CV
CV
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